What is tweed?
In the early 1800s, Scottish weavers made a fabric called “tweel”, the Scots word for twill, referring to the diagonal weaving pattern. When a London merchant received a shipment labeled “tweels,” he misread the handwriting and assumed it referred to the River Tweed, which flows through the Scottish Borders. He marketed it under that mistaken name and the name stuck. So the word tweed is a historical typo that became permanent. Denim is another popular diagonally woven twill.
Tweed is a rough, woven woolen fabric, known for its
slightly nubby texture and earthy color variations. The yarns are often twisted
from multiple shades, giving the material depth and visual warmth.
Unlike smoother fabrics such as worsted wool or suiting,
tweed is thick, insulating, and highly durable. It was originally created for outdoor
wear in the chilly, damp climates of Scotland and Ireland.
Tweed typically features a twill weave, that diagonal
ribbing you can see up close—and sometimes incorporates herringbone,
houndstooth, or check patterns. Its handwoven origins give it a sense of
craftsmanship that modern machine-made materials can’t quite
replicate.
In short, tweed feels timeless because it is. It was
built to endure both weather and fashion trends.
In college, I had a huge hankering for a tweed couch. Then, years later, I fell in love with this nubby green boucle tweed coat from J. Crew called Daphne:
Tweedy Royals
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert popularized the fabric
further when they made Balmoral Castle in Scotland their retreat. The royal
family wore tweed while hunting and walking the moors, and soon the upper class
followed suit.
By the 1920s and 1930s, tweed had become an emblem of British
country style.
Coco Chanel and a Parisian Tweed
Then came Coco Chanel. In the 1950s, Chanel
reimagined tweed as feminine, sleek, and chic, introducing the world to the
iconic Chanel tweed suit: a collarless jacket with matching skirt,
fringed hems, and delicate metallic threads. Her inspiration came from men’s
hunting jackets borrowed from her then partner, the Duke of Westminster.
Chanel’s reinvention transformed tweed into a symbol of
effortless Parisian elegance—a contrast to its rustic beginnings. Since then,
designers from Ralph Lauren to Alexander McQueen have continued the legacy,
bringing tweed to runways, offices, and your classroom.
Tweeds to Know
1. Herringbone Tweed:
This is named because the "V" shape looks like the bones of a herring fish, so literally herring bone. Whether tile or tweed, the herringbone brings added elegance.
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2. Donegal Tweed:
Speckled in appearance, often black and white, but may be any color combo. Originally made in Donegal, Ireland.
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3. Houndstooth:
Popular broken pattern with the shape of a . . . hound's tooth.
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Glen Check:
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Windowpane: Whereas glen check has interlocking squares that look woven, windowpane is larger scale squares.
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If you care for it well, tweed should last forever, and it's a classic that rarely goes out of style.
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